Leaving our van in the storage section of Broome Caravan Park we headed north up the corrugated, sandy red dirt Cape Leveque Rd, destination Gnurmarang (Newmarong). Psyching ourselves along the way that we don't mind roughing it in our two man tent.
Arriving at the Beagle Bay community we were surprised to find a tidy well kept community town. The "white mans rubbish" (paper wrappings & bottles etc) in little evidence as opposed to towns like Katherine where the flotsam of the days shopping & eating is left on the ground for others to collect or the wind to discard to the never never. The place is famous or its beautiful church built by the missionaries & local people early in the 19 th century. The church is beautifully maintained by the local people.
Decorated internally by mother of pearl shells, the wall, altar & pulpit are a combination of Christianity & indigenous culture colliding to create a little gem of a building in this remote peninsular of WA.
Travelling further we arrived by another rough sandy track at the community run campsite, Gnylmarung, where we set up the trusty tent for a few nights. While facilities were basic, firewood was provided & a community landline phone was available free of charge. The camp was very secluded ( great for a bush pee at night) & only about eight other campers were here.
The beautiful beach rarely had more than four people sharing it any time. A nice change after busy Cable Beach in Broome.
Beachcombing here was what you imagine with lots of little shells & if you get lucky, the odd big shell floating on the waters edge at low tide. Amazing when you are the only one on the beach with the waves rolling gently to one side & wild undeveloped sand dunes on the other. The tide here is like all this area, where there is approx 8 meters between high & low.
The beautiful rock pools at low tide.
First footprints at 11am & the beach around the rocky headland to ourselves.
Another beautiful sunset setting the sand dunes glowing in the evening sky.
Our little faithful mate "brown dog" who adopted us. She spent each night & breakfast with us & we did get attached as she was just a lovely little dog. A lot of dogs look like a bit of dingo but many like her have little short legs & bodies.
The final morning I was over at the loo when next thing two little paws & nose come under the door. I said we were going home that day ( as you do when talking dog talk) & with that off she went & we didn't see her again. Guess the next visitors would be her new best friend.
A little dry season only cafe called Whale Song a bit further north was a welcome find on the way to Cape Leveque. Serving good coffee in double walled Bodum glass cups & delicious home made slices it was a nice treat in the middle of nowhere. Sitting on the edge of a vivid red cliff the views to the beach were spectacular.
Planning to stay at Kooljamin Camp on Cape Leveque, we arrived to find the place booked out. After a quick look at the beach & Lighthouse an executive decision was made to head for Broome instead of finding an alternative camp. The comfort of the "Lotus" beckoned & we took off for home.
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The amazing colours at Cape Leveque.
The old lighthouse pointing the way back home.
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